Too many things to do - Tuesday

Ok, on a previous post I mentioned that this is NOT a hydrangea. It turns out that it is actually going to be a rather large deciduous tree. It was only about 2 1/2 feet tall when I first transplanted it.  I moved it to a sunny location in the back area of the house.  Bad move.

 These little puppies more than tripled in height in just one year. Yes, there are two. Both now clear the rooftop.  

Here is where the to do list comes in.  I need to orchestrate balling the roots and moving these puppies to their new home.  I have the space all picked out. The problem is that every time I put a shovel in the ground, I hit river rock.  So it will be a work in progress.  

 I plan to put at least one of them on the lee side of the dog run to give Finn some good shade in the summer - that big sunny section in the back of this photo. 

So, here's my plan. I resolve to spend 1-2 hours either in the morning or evening when it's cool (girl isn't gonna dig in 90 degree sun) each day until I get the whole big enough.  I am hoping that in the better part of a week I will be ready to do the root ball and transplant.  Once that's done, the next step is to dig the trees with their root ball intact.

 These videos were a great help for me to visualize the process of how big to dig and how to get the transplant going:

 Great video on transplanting a small tree        

9 steps to transplanting a young tree.

Here's the process if you want to move a tree or shrub DIY style: 

1. Location is everything. Once you have decided where you want your plant and have considered all the tree or shrub needs (Does it need sun or shade? How much space and water will it need at full size?) you should ALWAYS (I mean ALWAYS) use the "call before you dig number" to make sure there are no buried cables or septic systems etc. 
2. Dig the new hole before you dig up the tree/shrub. Doing it in reverse lowers the plants chances for successful establishment.  The new hole should be about twice the width of the rootball (you will have to estimate here) A good rule of thumb is to use the drip line as a guide (that's the farthest branch reach).The depth should be a bit shallower, to avoid puddling and rot. You will have to estimate here I am sure. 
3. When you reach the bottom of the new hole, don't break up the soil beneath. It could cause the tree to sink and then we'd have rotting. Roots are strong, they can find their way through concrete, they can push their way through soil. The new hole is done!
4. Next, start digging the transplant out. Start 2-3 feet out from the base, around the drip lime (the circle made by the branches at their widest point) You want to get a good idea for where the main mass of roots lies, you might not need a 6 foot diameter hole, but better to start wide and work in than cut off valuable roots. 
5. Elicit some help: tractor, wheel barrow, hunky muscles - whatever you have on hand. :)  Lifting the tree/shrub out of the hole might be challenging depending on the weight of the plant + roots + soil clinging to said roots. The idea is to keep as much of the rootball intact as possible. 
6. The larger the plant is, the lower the chances of getting anything close to the entire rootball. Usually you will have to cut through some roots on a mature plant - use a sharp shovel or pruners - make a good, clean cut. 
7. Once you've removed enough soil from around the tree/shrub, you can slip your shovel under it and loosen the plant's grip on the soil below it (think teter-totter, gently rocking it loos and praying you don't break the shovel). 
8. Once loose, move the tree/shrub to a tarp. Drag the tarp with the tree/shrub over to the new hole. Slide it inside and make sure it is straight and the side you want to see if front. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping and watering as you go to make sure there are no air pockets. Airpockets = possible shifting. 
9. Mound a ring around the transplant creating a berm - this will help hold water like a basin. Key to successful transplant: well watered roots until successfully established. 
10. Top with a layer of mulch, but keep it a few inches from the trunk base for air circulation. Then, water, water, water.  Depending on the tree and your local conditions, you might want to consider supporting with steaks for a season or two.